by Judith Bishop

 

There is always a feeling of anticipation at In Good Taste when guest chefs arrive to teach a class. This was so when Stu Stein and his wife, Mary Hinds came with their new cookbook, “The Sustainable Kitchen”. Their goal for the cookbook “…is to take sustainable and seasonal cuisine out of the restaurant…and into the home.”

 

   We have tasted several recipes from the book. A great starter from the book is the extremely easy fresh pea soup. It's elegance lies in the simplicity of technique. Blanching both English peas and their pods for 30 seconds, then plunging them into an ice water bath is followed by pureeing both peas and pods with green onions, mint and Tabasco Sauce. Once strained, a garnish of crème fraîche, finishes the soup. It's flavor and texture are both light and pure. The mint and Tabasco Sauce add depth to the pea flavor which can be too sweet at times.

 

Through the book, we are treated to a lesson on Salmon both Ivory King and its pink relatives. Stu teaches us that Ivory salmon is milder, silkier, and more buttery in flavor. His recipe of slow roasting it at 275°F on a bed of celery and onions, renders those flavors and textures perfectly. Any salmon can be cooked this way but the fattier the better. Again his recipe is simple and the perfect execution for the main ingredient.

 

We like this salmon served with Stu’s Ragout of Mushrooms, Spinach and Fingerling Potatoes. The goal of this dish is to caramelize both the potatoes and shallots. Wine and Madeira are added to meld the flavors of the ragout with the sweetness of the fish. Patience is the key to making the Ragout. One needs to know when to stir the pan. The preparation description is excellent with times for the various additions and what to look for in the dish.

 

For dessert, try Mary’s unique Peach Upside-Down Polenta Cake with Peach Syrup. Mary suggests using freestone peaches such as Red Haven or Suncrest. The recipe could appear confusing with sugar mentioned twice for the cake but the directions illuminate when and where the additions should be added. In classic upside-down fashion, the peaches are attractively arranged on the bottom of a springform pan and the thick batter is spooned over. This is not an overly sweet cake and the crunch of the polenta complements the soft sweetness of the cooked peaches. A drizzle of peach syrup brings the two elements of the dessert together. I love the textures of the cake. This is a dessert that can be made several days ahead and Mary also suggests using other stone fruit as well as apples, figs, and pears.

   

This is a book that not only has tasty recipes but educates you along the way on the best seasonal, local ingredients and cooking with sustainablity. The recipes are broken down not only with the usual ingredients and instructions, but also with the additional headings on how to serve, advance preparation, substitutions and options and wine notes. I particularly like the substitutions and options section because it helps inspire the reader’s creativity as well as showing the outcome of using different ingredients in a dish. The thoughtful wine notes educate the reader on why a certain wine should be paired with the ingredients in the recipe.

 

    You will find lots of information, technique, and creative recipes packed into this beautiful paperback volume. In some cases I was in a classroom learning about seafood supplies and fishing methods. Other times, I found myself walking along with Stu and Mary on their quest for the perfect lettuce. The stunning photographs by local photographer, John Rizzo, capture ingredients from the source to the garnished plate.

 

   'The Sustainable Kitchen' is a great book for all types of cooks. The "arm chair" chef will love the information given on each recipe. The home cook who is trying to cook in a local sustainable manner will be put on the right track, and the spontaneous cook will find many intriguing combinations. It is a must for Oregonians who want to eat well!

  

"...a great cookbook is one that forces you into the kitchen." After reading several chapters, I feel inspired to create with our wonderful local bounty a meal from this cookbook!

 

Read ... Eat ... Enjoy!